Amazon Master Guide

Amazon Master Guide V1.0 (With Video)

Hello, thank you and a very big welcome to my Amazon Master Class. Any updates to the information displayed in this guide will be provided to all existing customers FREE of charge.

Video: Amazon UK - How to Ship to Collect+

Contents: 1. Basic (Orders below 800 £ / $ - Issuing a refund / reship. 2. Advanced (Orders above 800 £ / $ - Issuing a refund / reship. 3. Refunding an order into a gift card balance. 4. How to double / triple dip. 5. How to get a replacement shipped to a Collect+ address 6. How to crush Amazon investigations. 7. How to dodge getting blacklisted for reships. 8. How to secure hacked accounts.

So what exactly is Amazon refunding / reshipping? ------------------------------------------------- There's one main definition for amazon refunding / reshipping and that is simply applying proven SE methods with Amazon in order to get them to either refund or send a replacement for an order you've placed previously. These methods can also be used in conjunction with hacked accounts to reship items which the account owner has previously ordered directly to your drop.

1. Basic (Orders below 800 £ / $ - Issuing a refund / reship. +-------------------------------------------------------------+ This is the easiest of the methods found in this guide and is a lot easier than you think. Here you have two options:

Option 1. Order less than 800 $ / £ ? Great! It's super easy to get Amazon to issue a refund / reship for items up to this value.

Steps for Option 1; 1. Log into the Amazon account. 2. Click "Help" or navigate to this link 3. Scroll down and hover over "Need more help?" --> "Contact Us" 4. On the next page you'll see three options.

[1] "What can we help you with ?" --> Select the order you are looking to refund / reship. [2] "Tell us more about your issue" Select an issue --> Select "Other order issues" [2a] "Select issue details" --> Select "Something else" [3] How would you like to contact us? --> Select "Start chatting"

A chat window will open and a representative will greet you shortly after.

You may be asked to confirm the "order number" or the "name" which is registerd to the account so

just comply with any requests the representative mat ask you (if you are using a hacked account, have this information handy). If any questions were asked, the rep will then proceed to ask you "What the problem is". This is where your SE skills will come into play. There isn't really any magical excuse required for refunds / reships of this value, here's one I have personally used over and over again;

--------> My item arrived as an empty box? This is a classic example of typical excuses used to SE Amazon for refunds / reships and yes it STILL works today. If the order you are refunding / reshipping was placed within the last month then you can simply say that you've opened the box and to your surprise it was empty and contained nothing but an order invoice. If this excuse is used, the representative will most likely ask you if the "box was damaged or tampered with", of course you should say no, usually I then proceed to tell the representative that the item in question is a birthday gift for a relative and that you're deeply disappointed at the service you've been provided with as you're a "long term customer" <--- It's paramount that you mention that you're a long term customer, play on it and have fun with it. Make the Amazon rep feel sorry for YOU. You'll most likely receive all the apologies under the sun and after all they are obliged to their customers and making sure you're satisfied is important to them. They should offer a refund / reship for you 95% of the time . (If the order was placed before January 2014 you may run into some difficulties and your case will be forwarded for investigation but there's information further into this guide on how to get out og the investigation stage).

2. Advanced (Orders above 800 £ / $ - Issuing a refund / reship. +---------------------------------------------------------------+ Believe it or not this is actually a lot easier than thos who are experienced in this game make it out to be. Repeat the steps as shown above but when it comes to selecting "Start chatting", click "Call us" instead. Insert a phone number (any will do) and it doesn't have to be registered to the account. Then proceed to call the number displayed on screen.

**IMPORTANT** Once your call is connected, you will hear "Hello and thank you for calling Amazon my name is ..... how can I help you today?". Take note of the name of the rep and terminate the call. You should now go back to the screen where you pressed "Call us" and then hit "Start chatting"

Feel free to use the following words once connected to the chat, or mix it up and put your own spin on the following: "Hello, I was just holding a telephone call with one of your colleagues called (name of rep) and he / she was just about to issue a refund / reship (whichever you prefer) for my order but we were unfortunately disconnected and I'm unable to reach the number provided. Please could you continue the process here? As I mentioned on the phone I received an empty box / item never arrived blah blah"

The rep you are chatting with will then ask you to hold whilst they "look into this for you" (they will be checking the call records to verify that you did call and speak to the rep you mentioned earlier). Don't worry they won't be able to see that your call only lasted a whole 3 seconds :). They may then proceed to ask you some questions about the order / account but they will proceed to offer a refund / reship shortly after. Remember, make them feel sorry for YOU. After all, you've done nothing wrong ;)

Extra tips: Keep calm, don't panic, be civil and polite but act disappointed and embarrassed to be

taking time our of your "busy schedule" to contact a company who which you put your trust in on a regular basis.

3. Refunding an order into a gift card balance. +----------------------------------------------+ This method is recommended for hacked accounts only.

Simply follow these steps to have an order refunded to a gift card balance.

1. Follow the previous steps above and get yourself into the chat with an Amazon rep and up to the stage where you're offered a refund / reship. 2. When the rep offers a refund / reship, proceed to ask them for a refund, but tell them that "I have a request, I'm currently unable to take a refund to the payment card originally used to pay for the order" 3. Usually they'll reply something like "We are unable to process refunds to anywhere other than the card used to pay for your order). 4. Simply reply with the following or something similar; "As I've recently lost my card and had to request a new one for fraud purposes so the card information linked to my account is no longer valid". Also mention that "I'm a long term Amazon customer and I've never had any issues up until now".

4. How to double / triple dip. +-----------------------------+ Now this is probably easier than the original refund / reship as you already know what to say. When your replacement arrives just repeat the steps from 1. and mention to the rep that your replacement either never arrived or arrived empty again (this is easier because they don't have the ability to track replacements). You can also mention that you were on the phone and was promised a replacement before you were disconnected. As long as you stick with it and continue to play the victim, the rep will eventually offer a reship for the item you've already refunded / reshipped.

5. How to get a replacement shipped to a Collect+ address +---------------------------------------------------------+ For the convenience of my customers I've included an exclusive video tutorial with this guide showing a live example of a chat log between myself and an Amazron rep issuing a reshipment from a hacked account to a Collect+ address in the UK for a Sony Playstation 4. Simply follow the video guide and you'll be all sorted :) When the Collect+ shipment arrives you are required to take ID to collect the parcel. The Collect+ website states that you can use a utility bill to collect items, so simply purchase a template from us or another vendor with the name matching the name on the Amazon account, print off the template and take it along to the store to collect your reshipped item once it arrives.

6. How to crush Amazon investigations. +-------------------------------------+ This is a rare occurance for orders below 800 £ / $ but when it does happen you should follow the steps below. If you're in a chat with an Amazon rep and they mention anything about forwarding the order onto their investigation team then you should exit the chat and continue your business in a fresh chat with a different rep. If you are in any case unfortunate to have an order placed into investigation

there's a couple of "excuses" to crush the investigation before it properly commences.

Here's one of them; Call Amazon and tell them that you believe your account may of been compromised and you've noticed some activity on a preious order (Amazon will tell you that they've launched an investigation to which you should reply that you've now secured the account and no longer require further assistance and that the investigation doesn't need to continue. Answer their questions if they ask any and mention that you did receive your item(s). << I've used this a good few times and it's always worked 100%.

7. How to dodge getting blacklisted for reships. +-----------------------------------------------+ If you're limited to the amount of drops you have then you'll probably get blacklisted sooner or later from doing countless amounts of reships to the same address. This is easily overcome by making minor changes to your drop address when adding it to an Amazon account. For example if this was your original drop address:

Flat 10, Test House Test Street Testville TE5 7ST

You should change it to:

10, Test House Test Street Testville TE5 7ST

or

10 Test House Test St Testville TE5 7ST

I recommend making minor changes to the way your drop addresses look for every 3 - 5 reships. Or if you're feeling ambitious you can simply call Amazon and tell them that you've recently moved into the address and you've been notified that the previous tenants / owners have blacklisted the property (this will have the blacklist removed within a 24 hours).

8. How to secure hacked accounts. +--------------------------------+ I'll keep this part of the guide simple and straight to the point. Just follow these steps (you should already have access to a hacked account before beginning). We do offer various hacked Amazon accounts with orders which are eligible to be "replaced / reshipped" to your drops. Accounts will be priced based on a flat % of the item within the account (we usually target items worth £150 / $150+

Here's how you'll receive an account from us;

+-----Courvoisier Amazon UK Account-----+ E-Mail: joebloggs@mail.com Password: qwerty1234 Postcode: PO5 7TC Order number of item to replace: 123456-789456 Item to replace: Sony Playstation 4 Price of item to replace: £349.99 +----------------------------------------+

Description of information included: Email - The email address of the Amazon account which will be used to login. Password - Password matching the email address of the Amazon account which will be used to login. Postcode - To be used if you hit the "security page" when logging in which asks for the postcode registered to the account. Order number of item to replace - To be used in conjunction with the replacement / reshipping process. Item to replace - Reference to the item you'll be replacing / reshipping. Price of item to replace - Reference to the item you'll be replacing / reshipping.

So if you purchase an account from us or if you have already gained access to a hacked account you should do the following: 1. Log into the account and head over to the "Your Account" section. 2. Click "Change Name, E-mail Address, or Password" 3. You should change the email address TWICE and the password TWICE. Make sure that the email you change it to looks similar to the email address which is already registered to the account. Here's an example of what the email adress of an Amazon account could look like: joebloggs@outlook.com 4. you should change it to something like: joebloggss@outlook.com < notice I put in an extra "s" ? 5. You should then CREATE a new e-mail address similar to the one above and then change the e- mail once more on the Amazon account to the once you've recently created. This is done to ensure the account holder cannot recover or regain access to the account once you've processed the reship. 6. Change the password twice (take note of it incase you need to log back into the account thereafter.

Thank you once again for purchasing my Amazon Master Guide. Please remember that if there are any updates / additions to the guide you will receive them completely free as part of our existing customer plan.

Amazon Refunding - The Basics

Amazon Refunding- The Basics

What's the easiest excuse to tell amazon to get a refund/replacement?

1) Telling amazon you never got the package 2) The box was empty

How do they reimburse the person that filed the claim? Amazon credit, or a full refund? If you paid via credit card, they will reimburse your credit card, if you paid by gift card, they will apply the balance to your account.

Calling or live chatting? It depends, I have talked to some people who can't talk on the phone to save their life. I find it easier just calling them, they will put you on hold for a minute or two, and will let you know that the refund is now processing.

You could go with livechat, but sometimes you will get a dick rep, so I always found it easier to call, because you can just ask to get transferred to someone else.

I'm going to say it says delivered but never came, how many days should I wait? Wait 3 days, That is how long Amazon tells you, after 3 days of it saying delivered, you are fine to call in letting them know it never came.

Why is Amazon so easy, They are a huge company? Like any good company, they prioritize customer satisfaction.

Does this work for a brand new Amazon customer that has never ordered from Amazon before? Yes.

How long does it take to get the credit/refund? Amazon claims 2-3 business days, it is normally less than one.

My account is under investigation?

You either: Made a new account, or had multiple accounts Used the same IP for multiple refunds.

Does the number of legitimate purchases on my account matter? The number of legit purchases doesn't matter. Amazon keeps track of all the refund requests you make with every excuse you use. I continually see advice saying to take a "break" or make some legit purchases.

I'm thinking about buying a cheaper console around 100-150$. Should I say I didn't get it or should I fill the package with rocks and say there were rocks in it and ship it back? Think about this logically for a second. Have you ever known anyone that has actually received a box of rocks? Don't bother sending anything back, just say you didn't get it.

Is using Prime bad? I've used both Prime and Super saver. I always get a tracking number. Im in the US. The only exception is overseas shippers, which almost never have a tracking number or even accurate estimated arrival date. The issue with this is that you can only do it a few times per account, if you already have prime on your account you are wishing to refund you are find.

If they require a signature, can one simply scribble a fake name or illegible signature? Then of course go with the "3 day, no package show" plan. Would you recommend that, or would you simply sign for it then say it was empty? Yes, you can always sign a different name or just scribble on the pad, I do it even for normal shipments. I would recommend you go for the sign it and then say it was empty since you don't have to wait.

When you say it is 'empty', how empty do you mean? Like, there were no items whatsoever? Or there was item packaging without items enclosed? Or no items or packaging, but perhaps some packing peanuts and an invoice? Do you ever make any mention of the box being damaged, or having a tampered-with appearance? If one is calling in, it seems it would behoove oneself to have some details

handy, as details give them an idea as to the nature of why the items aren't there. Which leads me to my next question.. They won't ask you, just say the item you purchased wasn't in there. I have never had anyone ask me what was exactly inside the box, but you could say that the invoice was in there, but it seems like they just forgot to add the product before sending it off. I don't say the box is damaged, I say that it looks like someone made an error while filling the box.

Why do they assume the items are missing? Do they suspect an error on behalf of their fulfillment staff? Do they suspect theft on behalf of theirs or the shipping carriers staff? Do they suspect that perhaps the driver messed up and delivered it to the wrong address? Do they even really care? They expect it happened while someone was filling the order. They really don't care, though.

Address is blacklisted? What do you do to unblacklist it? 1)Create new account 2)Use different name. DON'T BE AN IDIOT AND USE THE SAME NAME IN THE BILLING SECTION 3)Try to make an order. Once declined call Amazon 4)Call in saying you just moved in and you can't make an order. 5)They'll do something on the spot or they'll do an investigation. 6)Your address will become unblacklisted.

ANONS All About Amazons Login Exploitation

ANON'S "ALL ABOUT AMAZON'S LOGINS EXPLOITATION"

This guide contains illegal shit. It's for entertainment purposes and if you like boring ass long reads. The aforementioned guide will give you some tips regarding how to get the necessary stuff to exploit an Amazon account, how to act while exploiting an Amazon account and how to use an Amazon stolen account to increase your chances of success at getting something out of them. Again, illegally.

STUFF: What you'll need: * Amazon login details. * A VPN and/or SOCKS5. * A drop.

What you don't need, but may be really useful: * Email access of the accounts you ordered. * User address. * A public/cracked Wi-Fi. * Basic social engineering skills.

STEP- BY - STEP GUIDE

PART 0: GENERAL SETUP FOR CARDING PURPOSES

a) Finding and setting up your VPN: This is especially useful If you're a dealing with an Amazon account you want to social engineer - alas, getting a replacement for an item. Your best bet is using the newest VPN or a VPS service you can find, as it will maximize your chance of avoiding the account suspension. Search forums or Google, new VPNs pop daily. You'll know this is a good VPN for the purpose of Amazon SE if: * It has been around for more than two, but less than six months (a general rule, you don't want to use an IP which has been blacklisted by Amazon). * Offers a lot of international servers. Depending on the account, you may need French, German, UK or Italian ones. * States, or at least claims, to never keep logs. * Accepts BTC.

Same goes for SOCKS5, search for them and search for new and fresh ones. All of this stuff is very cheap (lowest I found was $0.99 for a month). Don't use TOR with Amazon, period.

Optional: cracking a nearby Wi-Fi. There are a lot of tools for cracking Wi-Fis. I won't go in detail 'cause the process itself is

long. Check out this link (WARNING/ CLEARNET):

Now, download CC Cleaner or just create a new user from the control panel if you are on a Windows machine. For more infos on CC Cleaner check here (WARNING/ CLEARNET):

These steps will further clean all your previous internet history. With a cracked wi-fi, a clean history and a VPN you are basically covered and almost completely anonymous. Last thing, if you wanna be 100% sure, is spoofing your MAC address. Running a MAC spoofer will make your PC/laptop appear as a different one on the LAN. It's not really needed unless you get swatted, but better safe than sorry.

For more infos on how to spoof your MAC click here http://www.wikihow.com/Change-a-Computer's-Mac-Address-in-Windows

Now you are set with your hardware.

PART 1: FINDING A DROP. You can't do shit without a drop. Actually you probably wouldn't buy logins unless you had one. There are a lot of guides around and whatnot, I'll just state some basic facts. If you are in the U.S. or the U.K. and you are dead set on order an item (smaller than 30 x 30 x 30 cm x 10 lbs) use an Amazon Locker. Simple enough. If not in the U.S. or the U.K. and/or with a bigger item, it's pretty harder, but you still can:

1. Set your own house as a drop. How: Probably the most dangerous thing you could ever do, but if you want to play coy you can just sign in a different name when receiving your carded stuff and then act like you never saw that package in your life should anyone come to claim something. You never signed that piece of paper, you didn't touch that touchscreen and you didn't ever see the mailman who is accusing you. Not really a smart move and for high-end items you'll probably face some consequences, anyway, but from a logic point of view it's your word against (eventually) the courier. The advantage is that if shipping goes well, you get whatever you carded directly. The disadvantages are... well, pretty obvious.

2. Rent a house. How: Easier or harder than other options depending on circumstances, always a bit of a hassle if you don't live in a God's forsaken country where people are educated enough to know that they should be able to identify who they are renting their house to. Find a house in a near city (google it, search locally for listings) and rent it under a fake name. For some days and if you are young it's possible they won't ask for any ID form (good handmade fake IDs are too pricey on the deepweb for the purpose of getting some out of Amazon, unless you already bought one or are replacing a $/£/€ 1000+ item).

3. Using someone else's lawn and a burner phone. How: Easiest thing ever if you live in good ol' America. The good thing is that is mostly

anonymous. Remember option 1? This is the other way round, you'll make an order in someone else's name, who'll take the blame for you - most, fortunately, go through this unscathed, other than taking the piss for your actions. You'll necessarily need a burner phone too. Just make an order to a lawn easily accessible to you and say in the notes: "Call this number before delivering/let me know at what time you'll be delivering, I'll reach you "... to your burner phone, of course. Wait for the call, go to your drop, meet eventually with the courier and pick up the package. No sweat, but make sure it is a house waiting to be rented or not yet sold. If owned, find a time when it's completely empty. Tricky and could still go horribly wrong, but it may work. Courier don't ask for IDs, nor are allowed to. Best thing is picking up a single woman address, go there and pretend you are her husband/fiancée. Or if you are a girl or have a girl who is willing to risk her ass for you, you can do it the other way round.

4. Using a reship near you. There are totally anonymous ones if you know where to look, but I wouldn't want to saturate my reshipping companies. So you can try to use "reship.com" under a fake name (gifting) OR the legit account owner's name. Still not really recommended though, but if you act fast you probably won't need verifications. Prepare fake ID scans (cheap, unlike full-fledged fake IDs) to send through email just in case. Overall a high risk/ high payoff solution you may want to consider. The limit is it works as intended only if you can go pick the thing yourself, otherwise your personal address will still be exposed.

5. Using a fence/drop & reship service found on the deepweb. If you are not in the U. S. there are some guys on the deepweb that will help you. For a price. I won't get in detail. Somewhat still risky as you could get scammed, or they charge a 1:1 fee (meaning: they'll take a good equal to the value of the one you are getting). Again, search for it. Be prepared for 100+ service fees other than double shipping expenses to pay.

So, in the end, order something that fits in an Amazon Locker (30 x 30 x 30 cm x 10 lbs) and stay safe. Otherwise, in the preferred order: option 5 for bigger packages, option 4, option 2, option 3... option 1. Like I said, an Amazon locker is the easiest ever and most secure. Look up on Amazon for more info. Only available in the U.S. and U.K. Use that in conjunction to reships if you leave in other countries for total anonymity.

1. PART 2: GETTING INSIDE THE ACCOUNT Things could slightly be different if: - You are using a .com account

- You are using an .eu one

- If you are using an .eu (.de/.fr./.es/.it/.co.uk), just grab a server on your VPN in the same country (Germany, France, Spain, Italy, United Kingdom). You will login without problems - unless your address has been blacklisted, in that case you would need a better, less saturated VPN.

- If you are using a .com account: a) Grab a U.S. server (for the nth time, look for a fresh VPN/VPS, if you get the account suspended/banned it's because you used an IP shared by a previous Amazon scammer) b) go to payments and login with the user account/pass c) Log-out d) Log-in to Amazon.com

If you accidentally logged in to amazon.com before going to payments chances are you'll trigger the security response. Don't worry. Log-out from Amazon's account and follows step "b" and on. You'll then be able to get to step "d" without issues.

Optional, but potentially useful: try to access the owner's email. IF and only IF you are using an .eu account or a .com account with a foreign email address (.uk/.es/.lt/whatever) it's worth checking if the mail and the passwords provided are the same for the account. I'll warn you it's unlikely, though, unless we are able to get them through our private means. May or may not happen in the future. Working on it, because, frankly speaking, an email access can ensure success. If you want to get to a USA email, instead, follow the steps a-d steps, take a note of the address and find a VPN geolocated in the nearest possible city. And you'll be able to login if the email/pass are still matching. Now, that being said, depending on circumstances you may happen to get the actual access or not (keep your VPN to the email owner's country or you'll probably freeze the email). If yes, you'll probably hit a friggin' gold mine, especially if the Amazon card is loaded and the email is linked to ther stuff you may or may not want to crack. Should that be the case, search the email for its spam filters and add a filter with "Amazon" as the sender and "reject" as the action. If not available, select "send to junk/spam folder". This means that every e-mail coming from Amazon will be automatically refused or sent to the spam folder, and should the user log in to their email during the time you are carding they won't notice Amazon tried to get in touch unless they go all the way to their spam folder. With the "reject" option they won't have any email and they'll be completely oblivious.

Optional, but potentially useful: if you want to SE stuff and you are in Europe, see if the owner's account has an .eu account. Connect to their .com and find the address infos in the account settings. Chances are that 90% of the time if there are not orders in Amazon.com and an EU address you'll find orders in the Amazon.eu website. With the order details you are able to social

engineer stuff to your drop. Combine this with the email trick and you are pretty much guaranteed to receive the item to your drop. I say "drop" as there are some things to clear: Amazon Lockers are still not available in most parts of Europe (just U.K.) at the time this guide is being written, so if you are in EU go for the second-best option of using multiple reships or a U.K. drop. If you are in the U.S. you may even skillfully dispatch a replacement to an address in the U.S. for a good purchased in Europe (warning: they'll try to charge the CC with VATs and customs). Yeah, that's right. It may be worth if it's an old +$400 "sold & fulfilled by Amazon" item with international shipping offered in the description. Less likely to succeed, but not as impossible as you may think if you say you moved oversea and never received your stuff at the moment of your purchase. If that sounds too hardcore stick to basic SE and replace it to a U.K. deepweb drop, then reship to your location whatever it may be. Confused because you never SE'd in your life? We'll get to SE right now:

PART 3: IF YOU WANT TO DO SOME SOCIAL ENGINEERING It's really easy to SE something out of Amazon and it's always worth a shot BEFORE the eventual carding, because you will usually get some profit. Super easy if this is a long- standing account, and most of the accounts you'll be provided are quite old, in the sense they were created long ago.

The basic outline should be: 1. Get an order details (number, date, address, receiver) 2. Contact Amazon Support 3. Tell them that you never received the box of all those years ago.

Contacting by mail/ticket/chat (I suggest chat, it's the fastest and speed here is the key to get the package shipped successfully, phone is even better, but you need a little confidence and a burner phone) you should write something along the lines of: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ "Hello, I am *******, I was recently browsing my order history and I noticed that in 201* I had ordered a *******. My account order number was ********** and it was supposedly received on **********. I am absolutely certain I never received anything on that day (optional because "I clearly remember buying another one some time later locally", "I got one as a gift around the same time" or some other bullshit). I don't know what to do, could you help me?" ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

They will get back at you saying how they understand your concern and, depending on the item value, they may offer a refund or a replacement or nothing of the sort. You have multiple choices here, but being an item "fulfilled and sold", a "fulfilled by Amazon" or from an AZ seller will trigger different responses:

If it's "fulfilled and sold" -> they'll offer a replacement OR a refund if it's "fulfilled by Amazon" -> they'll offer ONLY a refund if it's an "AZ seller" -> varies, they may ask you to contact the seller or asking to issue an refund

With "fulfilled and sold", thank them and ask for a replacement. Add a reason like: a. I recently moved b. It was for a friend

To ship it to a different address. And you're done. Choose your drop or your Amazon Locker. If you've cracked the email too you'll most likely face no trouble because the victim won't be able to know anything until they login (may take days/weeks/months). To be 100% sure, login to the email and delete whatever may come in the spam/junk folder (usually Amazon will send a small token of appreciation to the owner in the form of an email). Now the owner will find out a replacement has been sent to someone ONLY in the Amazon order history, and, like I said, you'll probably have plenty of time to dispatch/ pick-up the good from Amazon locker. Note that Amazon usually offers the fastest shipping option (one day) for a replacement, again out of kindness, so unless the guy logs in and check the order history the very next day you'll have a new item you can pick anonymously at your Amazon Locker. Even if using the other options, mind that Amazon won't ever employ repo men to get their stuff back even after the fraud has been discovered, so congrats.

Case number 2: with "fulfilled by Amazon" is where things get tricky. You'll get a refund ONLY to the owner's original credit card (the one used for purchasing the good) if it was purchased through credit card, if not you'll get it to your AGC balance. It's not really an Amazon's rule, but a general merchant's rule for security purposes and it's usually in the TOS of every payment gateway company. So, unless they purchased by giftcard (check the order history for full details on the transaction you are looking for) or you want to make them a nice surprise, go ballistic or try to make up a sob story (more about this later), as you have really nothing to lose (they won't close your account even if you wanted to piss them off) by saying you lost that credit card recently/ your wallet. Even off-the-top bullshit like deaths work great: "I am not the account owner, but their wife/husband as they recently died, their credit card is dead too, why won't you just give me a refund for something I never received?". It's no holds barred, pretentious bullshit will most likely get you some promo credit in the worst case scenario. It's really hard they will comply with your request for a FULL refund to another credit card and/or via gift card, almost impossible for higher amounts of money. Pulling their strings, on the other hand, will make them in 90% of the cases issue a small amount gift card for no reason at all. They'll be like "We are sorry for your loss, we cannot issue a full refund but please accept $20 of gift/promotional balance" to your account.". Still, you made a profit. Again, nothing is guaranteed: remember that Amazon's staff is formed by human beings. Try to get them on your side, this is what SE really is. I'm not gonna lie: getting them to refund from a credit card purchase to Amazon Gift Card balance is 90% of the time fruitless. But, there is a statistically relevant percentage of people

who pulled it off even for higher amounts (in the 100ish/300ish). It all depends on your social skills and a bit of luck. You may want to get an experienced "Amazon Social Engineer" for that. There are quite a lot of people (clearnet and deepweb) who make a business out of SEing Amazon, and really good ones can probably pull it off. They usually charge anywhere between a 10 to 20% of the price of the good if successful, so be warned.

"AZ seller" leaves you with no options, go directly for the sob story and accept the $20/$10 balance.

Another tactic for no-order accounts it may give you some luck is the “Amazon Gift Card sob-story” that goes as following: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ "Hello, I am *******, I’ve been a faithful client of yours since *****. I recently bought a $500 gift card at a local store a couple weeks ago, I planned to use it to **************************** (sob story = could be gifts for your son/daughter, flowers for your dead mother, a book for your brother in the hospital)... however I lost my wallet/ a thief stole it ******* (add some details). I already filed a police report and everything. Is there any way I can possibly get my giftcard back? Please, I’m really desperate. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chat a bit, following the guide lines of the previous SE. If they do not mention consolation giftcards, do not be afraid to ask DIRECTLY. They’ll probably toss you a small one. Sound as miserable as possible. Again, be sure they send it to an email address you own or credit directly to your Amazon account. Then go buy whatever digital item you want and quickly redeem/ make someone redeem it for a price.

Note: Same rules go for phoning them. Actually, if you are phoning them, chances of success usually skyrocket, and even the items only "fulfilled by Amazon" may do for a full refund. Use a burner phone, sound convincing and put up a good act.

PART 4: IF YOU WANT TO CARD (I DIDN'T PERSONALLY CHECK THE TRIAL PART) Done with the SE part, you'll probably want to try to use the Amazon account like a set of Fullz. First off, and it's very important, you should check if the credit card is expired/dead. It will save you a lot of hassles, so check the expiration date of the card. If it's not past its date, good. You can now know if it's live or not. Browse the order history: does this person buy a lot? Did they purchase something in the last 30 days? If yes, then rest assured that the card has some balance. Another way to do this if the card had a really old last order it's to sign up for a free trial: either Amazon Prime or Amazon Cloud will do. This is because Amazon won't charge a card, but just check if it's valid. Moreover, Amazon Prime is useful and quick to receive your shit.

If the Amazon trial is successful, congrats. Your card must have some balance you can take for yourself.

Note that whatever you may do after signing up for the trial is to be done fast if you have no email access/ didn't do the email cracking, anyway. The email will most likely receive something regarding their recent free trial. It's kinda of a non-alerting type of mail though, people may interpret that as "oh, I got a freebie from Amazon" or not.

Now you can try to card. There are two ways: A. Order a physical item directly to an Amazon Locker/drop (risky, remember that this solution is great for replacing items, but only adequate for carding) B. Order a gift card C. Order a digital code

"A" is the obvious, but, even after all the talk about drops before, this is a gamble, because you won't know if shipping is a success until a few hours. You should place multiple shipments for different amounts (like a first, big one of, let's say, $300, then a second one of $150 and a last one of $50). Amazon will give priority to the first and if not able to charge the CC will keep going down. Do no more than three or your account will get flagged. And, whatever you do, always ship as a gift to a fake name and an Amazon Locker. "B/C" is the subtle approach, and it's much more rewarding with a little work, like posting an add of giftcards for BTC and flipping the card instantaneously. Simply try to purchase digital codes and redeem them/sell them instantly or spam an email you own with Amazon Gift Cards. "B" is the most recommended option. Trial & Error like sending a $500 gift card and then going down if not working, or sending a couple of $50 to your stealth email should both work. Amazon gift cards are usually instantly credited to the account (sender/owner will be potentially be alerted). Stop after a few or try again until the card is drained. From now on, you should probably have already prepared a spare, fresh Amazon account you created. If not, create BEFORE the above steps a new one with a valid VCC (lots of sellers even on the clearnet, for price a few dollars) and an Amazon Prime subscription, just add one or two gift cards to it and purchase to an Amazon Locker. It should ship the next working day and time will hopefully be on your side. When it's shipped, it's unlikely anything will be done to you. Amazon usually won't deactivate/remove carded balance to protect unknowing consumers who may have purchased from a fraudulent seller, and 9 times out of 10 won't bother stopping the courier anyway. Moreover, there is no proof you are the one who carded in the first place (remember to change VPN/proxy if you are paranoid). GG. Just reminding that, currently, Lockers can accept parcels up to 30cm x 30cm x 30cm in dimension, with a maximum weight of 10lb.

PART 5: IF YOUR ACCOUNT IS SHIT So, you ended up with a completely worthless account: no orders and the card has expired/ has no balance. What to do?

Simplest answer ever: don't do anything else and wait. Unless the owner changes the account’s password you can keep checking it later for new purchases, new stuff and/or new cards added in total security. Treat your login infos just like a fishing rod in the sea. Then, strike the moment a new purchase is made or you see a new card. If you're up for some fun, still strike up a chat with Amazon's staff member and give them the sob story/money loss/continuous strange problems with your account. Who knows, like I said, they give small AGC for almost every stupid issue, why shouldn’t you try it anyway? And that takes us to the last point...

PART 6: GET CREATIVE This is especially for the experienced Social Engineer. This guide and its elements are just tool you can use, combine them, use your own twist. If you have half a brain you probably thought of something you can add to this or do yourself. Don't get discouraged if things go wrong the first time. Don't get careless. Don't get greedy. And more than anything, get creative. Audentes fortuna iuvat.

Best of luck! Anon

A Full Guide to Shoplifting

A Full Guide to Shoplifting! -----------------------------

DISCLAIMER: /////////// The author of this file is not responsible for any of the actions taken by the reader of this file. This is for informational purposes only.

A GUIDE TO SHOPLIFTING: / ///// // ////////////

Since I started working at a grocery store, I have learned many techniques to shoplifting. I have learned some stuff by the mistakes made by several shoplifters, and others by experiment.

RULE 1 : NEVER NEVER NEVER try to steal something at a store you frequently shop at. That is just plain stupid. If you really want something bad enough, then spend a little gas money. Hey, its better than buying the product you are about to lift.

RULE 2 : Don't act suspicious or nervous. Employees aren't stupid. They know that if you are acting nervous, then you are usually up to something bad.

RULE 3 :

Try to steal from stores without video survaliance. This is by far the safest way to do things.

RULE 4 : DO NOT be GREEDY! Take a little at a time. And take things that will fit in your pocket or purse. Bigger items are harder to get away with.

RULE 5 : Try not to hit the same stores over and over. Have some variety in your life. You will be less likely to be caught if you don't frequently go to the same place.

RULE 6 : Do NOT be fooled by cameras with the name SVS. These are fakes! They do nothing but sit there. They look real by the way they have a cable going into a wall, and are plugged in and have a red light on, but they are still fake. GUARANTEED!

RULE 7 : Do NOT be stupid enough to steal around other shoppers. I have seen many instances where the employees never saw a person shoplift, but a customer had turned a shoplifter in, and the customers word is just as incriminating as the employees.

RULE 8 : Many times if someone sees you trying to shoplift, they will start following you around. Calmly place the stuff back on the shelf, any shelf! They really can't get you as long as you haven't walked by a register, and start walking out the door, because until you start walking out the door, you still could have intent to pay, and if they do pick you up for shoplifting before you walk out the door, your case most likely will not hold up in court. Many lawyers have freed many shoplifters because of that. If they pick you up. Start telling them you haven't had a chance to pay, and that they can not pick you up for shoplifting, until you have a chance to pay, or walk out the

door! Just act like you know what you are talking about!

RULE 9 : When you start walking out the door and you see someone following you, then run for dear life. Most of the time you can get away. If you have a get-a-way car waiting, then be sure that the license plate is covered up. All it takes is for someone to write down the license plate number to get you caught.

RULE 10 : If by any chance you are caught trying to flee, try and

wrestle your way out, but BE CAREFUL! Do not injure the person who is trying to catch you, let alone threaten them. If you just so happen to scratch them, the penalty goes from

theft to Assult and Robery, which means a bigger fine, or more time!

RULE 11 : Have someone waiting with bail money in case you get caught. *8-)

Now on to some ways to shoplift.

Method 1 :

This is probably the easiest method. Get a friend of yours to go to a store with you. Have him/her act very very suspicous. When an employee sees someone acting suspicous the key in on that person. Soon they will have everyone in that store watching him/her. Then you go where ever the merchandise is, and steal away. You leave with whatever you wanted, and then your friend leaves soon after, feeling good that he/she has just fooled a store full of idiots.

Method 2 :

If you are a woman, then get a big purse. Empty it out, and pick the lucky victim. This works good at places with shopping carts. Place your purse in the section where children sit. Usually located at the front of the basket. Have your purse open at this point. Go around the store looking at whatever you like. When you find the item, pick it up, look at it, and casually sit it down like you are putting it in the basket, but instead of putting it in the basket, put it in your purse.

Method 3 :

Grocery stores are probably the easiest to hit. Most have low security if any. Only problem, is that most people think the only thing you can get at a grocery store is food. WRONG!! Go over to the more expensive area, HBA (Health & Beauty Aids). There is gold there. Get everything from Advil to Obsession Cologne. You ask yourself, why do i need 80 boxes of Advil? Take one box for yourself, then go sell the rest to friends, or take the stuff to a Flea Market, set yourself up a booth, and sell away. Most boxes of Advil cost around $8-$10 each. You sell for $5, and instant profit. But be careful in the HBA area, that is usually where the security will be, if any!. I have seen many stores, with out any cameras in the grocery area, but one camera in the ceiling in the HBA area. So just pick up the stuff, put it in the basket, carry it over to the grocery side, and take it! Another good thing to take from grocery stores is cigarettes. A carton is getting close to $20 each. So take yourself a few, and sell to your friends/family for about $10-$15. Good profit there. Or if you are into that nasty habit, keep them for yourself.

Method 4 :

Whenever you need to get film developed, or prescriptions filled,then take it to your favorite grocery store. After you get your prescription and/or film, tell the clerk that you are going to do some more shopping. Walk around the store a little, then walk out the door. A good idea is to have a receipt from an old purchase. carry it in one hand, then carry the goods in the other. That way the look at you, see the receipt, and think that you payed for it.

Method 5 :

A good way to get free fertilizer, top soil, etc., is to go by your favorite nursery or whoever carries the stuff outside. Give them a visit about 3 a.m. or so, and fill up your truck or car. The best way to do this is to have someone driving, while you fill it up. If someone comes out of the store (like a night stocker) and confronts you, jump in the back of the truck, and tell your friend to take off. Be sure to have you license plate covered up.

CONCLUSION : ////////////

Stores today are not there for you. They are there for themselves. They may claim low prices, but in all truth the merchandise is usually marked up 200% or more. I have seen some instances where cologne has been marked up 450%. This is outrageous. Why should we pay those kind of prices, when we can get it for free! Many stores may claim that shoplifting increases prices, although the real reasons for price increases is the Upper Division, who wants more added onto their 6 and 7 digit yearly salaries. So don't

be fooled by that stupid warning. And remember Robin Hood, steal from the rich (THEM) and give to the poor (YOU, even if you aren't poor heh!).